Night trains in Europe
They're back in force and they're the most civilised way to cross Europe: you go to bed in one city and wake up in another, saving a hotel night.
Why they came back
For years they had almost vanished, and over the past decade routes and frequencies have recovered, particularly from Austria, Switzerland, Germany and the Nordic countries. Lower emissions, arriving in the city centre and saving a night's accommodation have made them attractive again.
The three berth types
A reclining seat is the cheap option, and you sleep poorly: fine for short journeys or a very tight budget. A couchette is a shared four or six-berth compartment with blanket and pillow, and offers the best price-to-rest ratio. A sleeper cabin is a room with fewer berths, proper bedding, sometimes a washbasin and breakfast included, and costs considerably more.
How well you actually sleep
Better than people expect, but not like a fixed bed. The train moves, there are night stops and some corridor noise. With an eye mask and earplugs, most people sleep reasonably in a couchette. In a seat, don't count on real rest.
Routes that work well
The most established night connections link central Europe with Italy, Austria, Switzerland, Germany and the Balkans. There are also domestic night trains within large countries like Sweden, Norway, Italy and Poland. From Spain international options are limited: the usual approach is reaching France or Italy by air or rail and connecting from there.
What they cost
They vary a lot by route, berth type and how far ahead you book. A seat can cost little more than a coach, and a sleeper cabin approach the price of a flight plus a hotel. Booked two or three months ahead they drop considerably: the cheapest fares sell out early.
With Interrail
The pass covers the journey but not the berth reservation, which is compulsory on night trains and among the most expensive. Even so, factoring in the saved accommodation night, it usually still works out.
What to bring aboard
Water and something for dinner, as the restaurant car doesn't always exist or closes early. Eye mask, earplugs and a jumper. And a small padlock or cable for your bag if you're in a shared compartment: not because it's dangerous, but you sleep better.
When it beats flying
It wins on journeys of eight to fourteen hours, where a flight would cost you half a day between airports. And whenever you value arriving in the city centre early, rested and without baggage limits. It doesn't win over very long distances, where the train takes two nights.
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